Serengeti & Ngorongoro

Wednesday 9th May

Later in the afternoon we went back to Arusha town to go to the internet café. We had been warned about the crime by the Hardmans and Days as their cars had had attempted break ins the day before, so Dave went into the internet and I sat in Garfield to guard her! Well, to cut a long story short, they stole 4 of the 6 bolts off the free wheel hub on Dave’s side while I was in the car! Obviously, with the intention of stealing the free wheel hub, but luckily a policeman saw them and called me. So, I am not a very good car guard! However, this is the first bit of crime we have encountered on our trip so that’s not too bad and Berry at Meserani Snake Park was able to give us more bolts, so alls well that ends well.


Thursday 10th May

We left at 8.15am in our Fun Safaris Landcruiser with our guide, Livingstone, and drove about 3 hours past Lake Manyara and to the Ngorongoro gate. After the gate formalities, we headed up through forest to the crater rim. What a spectacular sight! But it was really chilly and by the time we stopped further around the rim to have our packed lunches, we had all donned our winter woollies! We carried on down the far side of the crater rim towards Serengeti which is derived from a Maasai word meaning “endless plains”. We reached the Serengeti and walked up a kopje to a view sight and just stood and took in the sheer vastness of the plains for a few minutes.
We then started driving through them, and what a treat – in the afternoon and on Friday we saw 24 different animals including a cheetah with 2 cubs, a leopard in a tree, several tree climbing lions, baboon, crocs, gazelle, giraffe, African rock python etc etc. It was so exciting to see the cheetah and especially the leopard as I have been looking for one in parks for years with no success. And we identified 29 different birds including augar buzzard, marabou and white stork, secretary bird, various vultures, kori bustard, white headed buffalo weaver, bare faced go away bird etc etc.
The only bad part of the day was the tsetse flies that we encountered, luckily only for a brief period. We actually had quite fun for the brief period as everyone becomes violent killers and there is much hilarity with all the swatting and squashing! They are evil little flies with wings that cross over on their backs and they bite, and some people have a really bad reaction to the bites which can last up to a week! They are resistant beasts and do not die when you swat them so after swatting you literally have to squash them with great force and of course glee- sometimes they are full of blood – so it is all quite gruesome!
We reached our lodge at the northern edge of the grass plains at about 6 pm and what a treat it was to be shown to luxury rooms with hot water and best of all, a bath!! I thought I had had my last bath at the beginning of March for 2007, so that was a wonderful surprise, and Dave even lay back in a bath for 10 minutes! The Seronera Lodge was completed in 1971 and is built mainly out of wood and glass and is built all around the existing boulders. After a wonderful evening meal, we collapsed into our beds – exhausted but very content.

Friday 11th May

Livingstone picked us up at 7.30 and we set off a bit further north to look for migrating zebra and wildebeest.
In November the short rains start and the wildebeest migrate from the N of the Serengeti down S to the plains to eat the new grass which is rich in minerals needed to rear their young. Apparently, in Feb/March for about 3-4 weeks 90% of the female wildebeest give birth, flooding the plains with thousands of calves every day – this is a sight I would love to see. Then in May, when the rains stop, the wildebeest and zebra, set off from the southern plains, to the northern dry season range. We did not see great running herds, as perhaps, I had expected, but in the middle to top part of the plains, we did see huge herds of zebra and wildebeest, all heading north.
We then headed south back towards the Ngorongoro crater and to our lodge on the crater rim. Once again we enjoyed and appreciated the sheer luxury of hot baths and hotel dinners!

Saturday 12th May
We headed down into the crater early in thick, rainy mist but luckily it cleared once we reached the bottom, although it was still a cold day and I was very glad to have Rayanne’s GHS water polo jacket to snuggle into! The crater is 20kms in diameter and covers 260 square kilometers. We saw buffalo, warthog, gazelle, zebra, cokes hartebeest, golden jackal, hippo, black backed jackal, elephant, white bearded wildebeest, ostrich, black rhino, lion, waterbuck and loads of spotted hyena. Plus we saw lots of birds again – plenty of flamingo, crowned cranes and kori bustards etc. There is one road down into the crater and another one to ascend, although I believe there is one other road on the northern side of the crater that is for both up and down. Anyway, we went up the ascent road at lunch time and back to Ngorongoro Lodge for lunch, before heading back to Arusha in time for the Shark’s rugby match.
Berry and Lynn Bale at Meserani Snake Park had put a wildebeest and a warthog leg on the spit braai for us for dinner and of course they had the satellite TV for us to watch the rugby. They have been so hospitable to us and their park also encompasses a Maasai museum and of course the snake park. They do not charge camp fees at all and just expect you to frequent their pub and perhaps eat their very reasonably priced food – a cheese hamburger for just R12! So, we would really recommend their camp if you are up this way – their email is snakepark@habari.co.tz
It was wonderful to see the Sharks win and we all have decided that we have to find a TV next Saturday to watch the final! Thanks Guysie & Glyni for the phone call – it was great to hear your voices. My brother, Trevor, has also phoned me twice – thanks a million.

Sunday 13th May

We left at 8.30am and headed N for the Kenyan border. We take it in turns to lead on a rotational basis when we have days of traveling and Dave and I were in front today. It is Mother’s day and I had phone calls and sms messages so thank you my chickens – I love you so,so much! Dad has printed an A4 colour photograph of the 3 of you at Kelvin’s wedding and I have it hanging in front of me over the cubby hole so I can look at you all day long, while I do my tapestry or read to Dad!
We croseed the border at lunch time and said goodbye to Tanzania.
The costs in Tanzania were
Border fees R 875
Accommodation R1 076
Internet R 18
Groceries R1 195
Eating out R 651
Petrol R5 593
Car repairs R 437
Drinks R 749
Sight seeing R 538
Arusha Nat Park R 770
Ngorongoro& Serengeti R5 460
Purchases R 237

And in Zanzibar
Ferry R1 050
Taxis R 297
Accommodation R1 260
Restaurants R 378
Drinks R 267
Sight seeing R 241
Scramblers & petrol R 308
Purchases R 168
In addition, I spent R1 078 on Bradt travel guide books on the various countries we are going to visit – these travel guides are really good and I would recommend them to anyone traveling to a country in Africa. The most extravagant thing we bought in Tanzania, was a small bottle of Marmite for R45!

We traveled past Nairobi, and headed straight for Lake Naivasha only arriving at 6pm, so it was a long day. Luckily I have a “microwave” with me and the lamb chops were soon defrosted on the top of Garfield’s bonnet!
Thank you Jean, for always commenting on our web and thanks Yvonne J for doing odd chores for me when I sms you – you are a star!